Loewe Actually: Reviving Dior with JW Anderson Magic

Shalaka Vazé
Jan 22
6 min read

What could Dior look like under JW Anderson's creative leadership?

Dior, under Maria Grazia Chiuri’s direction, has enjoyed remarkable commercial success. In LVMH's press release on their 2023 performance, Dior was mentioned as a considerable contributor 10 times. However, many critics and fashion enthusiasts feel that the brand’s creative spark has dimmed, trading its whimsical, transformative allure for safe, formulaic designs. Enter JW Anderson, a visionary with an impeccable track record at Loewe and his eponymous brand. If the rumours are true and Anderson were to step into Chiuri’s role, he could usher Dior into a new era—one that redefines its feminist sovereign archetype, balances artistry with commercial appeal, and reclaims its place as a leader in cultural and creative innovation.

The Social Media Sentiment About Loewe

Recent commentary on social media, particularly posts celebrating Loewe’s collections, underscores the widespread appreciation for the brand’s creativity and artistry under JW Anderson. Under a post by @databutmakeitfashion on sentiment analysis between the two brands, one user remarked that “Loewe has managed to bring so many mediums of art into their conceptualisation and execution... bringing back the meat and potatoes of high fashion.” Another highlighted how “Loewe brings WHIMSY to a very unwhimsical fashion world,” emphasising its ability to make luxury feel playful yet wearable.

This positive sentiment reflects Loewe’s impact on reigniting a love for fashion as a medium for creativity, rather than just commerce. Anderson’s work at Loewe resonates deeply with audiences yearning for high fashion to feel artistic and authentic, setting a powerful precedent for what he could achieve at Dior.

From a great resource on trend analysis @databutmakeitfashion

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior: Achievements and Critiques

Chiuri’s tenure began in 2016 with bold feminist messaging, epitomised by T-shirts bearing slogans like “We Should All Be Feminists.” Her collections have celebrated inclusivity and women’s empowerment, aligning Dior with important cultural conversations. Financially, the house has thrived, achieving record-breaking sales under her leadership. According to reports, Dior's revenue tripled during her seven-year tenure.

However, the creative output has faced criticism. Chiuri’s designs - dominated by Grecian gowns, lace, and A-line silhouettes - have been accused of repetitiveness. The whimsical, transformative magic Dior was known for under designers like John Galliano or Raf Simons has been largely absent. Dior’s focus on wearable, pragmatic luxury has sometimes felt more aligned with capitalism than creativity, leaving critics and loyalists yearning for something more daring. For instance, the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection featured graffiti-like 'Miss Dior' logos prominently displayed on garments, a move that social media users felt was excessive and lacked style. If you didn't know the first runway photo was from 2017 and the second from 2024, would you be able to see a considerable difference?

JW Anderson: A Visionary for Dior

SJP holding the Loewe Pigeon Clutch on set, Harper's Bazaar

Jonathan Anderson’s work at Loewe has proven his ability to merge artistic innovation with commercial success. At Loewe, he’s transformed everyday objects into luxury items—think the Pigeon Clutch or Tomato Bag—while maintaining the brand’s artisanal integrity. His designs are playful, surreal, and intellectual, yet eminently wearable, making him a perfect candidate to revitalise Dior’s creative identity.

How JW Anderson Could Reinvent Dior’s House Codes

Breaking Chiuri’s Rules: Anderson could challenge the predictability of Chiuri’s Grecian-inspired designs by introducing unexpected silhouettes, deconstruction, and more avant-garde craftsmanship. Where Chiuri leaned on overt feminism, Anderson might infuse his designs with subtle, thought-provoking commentary on gender and power dynamics, pushing the narrative beyond slogans into something more layered.
Drawing from Galliano: Galliano’s Dior was marked by drama, theatrics, and an almost fantastical approach to femininity. Anderson could borrow from this by reintroducing theatricality to Dior’s runways, not through literal extravagance but through conceptual, art-driven presentations. For example, he might reimagine Galliano’s iconic bias-cut dresses with unexpected materials or surrealist embellishments.
Building on Simons’ Minimalism: Raf Simons’ tenure at Dior focused on sleek, modern minimalism and a respect for the purity of form. Anderson could spin this into a study of contrasts, juxtaposing minimalist tailoring with Loewe-like surrealism, such as integrating conceptual leather elements or sculptural details into classic Dior staples.
Reinterpreting the Bar Jacket: Dior’s iconic Bar Jacket, a symbol of post-war femininity, could be deconstructed and reconstructed under Anderson’s hands. By playing with exaggerated proportions, gender-fluid tailoring, or unexpected textiles, Anderson could make this historic piece relevant to today’s diverse audiences.
Reclaiming Whimsy: Anderson excels at creating pieces that are both playful and deeply considered. He could inject whimsy into Dior’s accessories, taking cues from Galliano’s storytelling and adding elements like surrealist bags or shoes that transform ordinary objects into symbols of luxury. Think Dior heels inspired by Renaissance art or handbags adorned with sculptural elements akin to Anderson’s Pigeon Clutch.
Integrating Craft with Couture: Anderson’s work at Loewe has celebrated artisanal techniques, often highlighting the hands that make luxury possible. He could weave this ethos into Dior’s couture collections, emphasising the craft behind each piece while reimagining it for contemporary relevance. For instance, he might pair intricate hand-embroidery with futuristic designs or mix unexpected materials like metallics or recycled textiles with traditional techniques.

Marketing Styles: Dior vs. Loewe

Dior Under Chiuri:

Celebrity Choices: Dior’s ambassadors, such as Jennifer Lawrence and Jisoo, represent polished elegance and global appeal.
Campaign Tone: Severe and refined, emphasising timeless femininity but often lacking the whimsy that once defined the brand.
- Key Example: The Dior fashion show in Mumbai, before the NMACC event, exemplifies the brand’s reliance on grandeur in setting rather than design. While it was noteworthy for partnering with a craft school, the marketing overshadowed the creative output instead of enhancing it.
Cultural Alignment: Dior’s marketing lacks a deeper connection to a singular cultural movement or zeitgeist. Dressing figures like Ivanka Trump for an inauguration could be seen as undermining the brand’s feminist messaging. Such decisions may reflect broader strategic interests, such as aligning with the Arnault family’s business goals, particularly in securing favourable trade agreements under a Trump administration. However, this risks alienating Dior’s core audience and eroding the house’s credibility as a champion of progress and inclusivity.

Loewe Under Anderson:

Dame Maggie Smith for Loewe in 2023, Glamour UK

Celebrity Choices: Loewe’s eclectic cast—including Daniel Craig and the late Dame Maggie Smith —reflects its avant-garde and youthful spirit.
Campaign Tone: Playful, surreal, and culturally engaged, with an emphasis on humour and irony.
- Key Example: Loewe’s viral campaigns, such as the Tomato Bag launch and editorial shoots blending high art with everyday objects, highlight the brand’s ability to capture attention online while celebrating creativity.
Cultural Alignment: Loewe’s collaborations extend into cultural relevance, such as its partnership with the International Craft Prize, elevating artisans and craftsmanship to a global audience. Normally, projects outside the normal shows require a higher budget that smaller brands typically have - it would be intriguing to see how JW Anderson would play with a high budget house like Dior when it comes to support for Arts and Culture.

Cultural Commitments from Other Houses:

YSL: Supported the film Emilia Perez, demonstrating its willingness to invest in bold, artistic cinematic storytelling. This connection to film expands YSL’s presence in cultural conversations while tying fashion to narrative art forms.
Chanel: Chanel has consistently highlighted its relationship with cinema, including campaigns that feature cinematic narratives or sponsorships of events like the Tribeca Film Festival, solidifying its commitment to the cultural zeitgeist through film.

Reimagining the Sovereign Archetype

Dior has the opportunity to redefine sovereignty in a way that feels modern and inclusive. Anderson could lead this charge by casting culturally significant figures such as:

Rekha: The Bollywood icon’s attendance at Dior’s Mumbai show and her iconic fashion moments throughout time make her a compelling symbol of cross-cultural elegance.
Gillian Anderson: Known for her intellectual gravitas and timeless sophistication, her previous work with Loewe demonstrates her versatility. Gillian’s portrayal of powerful, nuanced characters would align perfectly with Dior’s reimagined sovereign archetype under Anderson’s vision.
Phoebe Waller-Bridge: Her wit and subversive humour would bring a refreshing irreverence to the role of sovereign.

Beyoncé on the Renaissance Tour in reimagined, custom Loewe, Vogue
Beyoncé: The ultimate power move, Beyoncé’s recent Loewe moments on her Renaissance tour demonstrate her ability to blend futurism, grace, and commanding presence.
Michaela Coel: A fearless storyteller, Coel represents strength, intellect, and creativity.

These figures would not only align with Dior’s legacy but also push it forward, making sovereignty a celebration of diversity, individuality, and cultural relevance.

Dior’s next chapter is ripe for transformation. While Maria Grazia Chiuri has achieved commercial success, the brand’s creative evolution has stalled. Jonathan Anderson, with his artistic daring and cultural fluency, is uniquely positioned to bring back Dior’s magic while redefining what it means to be a sovereign in today’s world. By embracing diversity, playfulness, and storytelling, Anderson could make Dior a beacon of modern femininity and artistic innovation once again.